Fort Augustus to Glen Moriston Road

You will be forgiven if you have never heard of this road. After all, it ceased to be a road in any meaningful sense 200 years ago when Thomas Telford built his new road through Glen Moriston from Invermoriston - the road that survives today as the A887. The road being described here was built in the 1750s by Major Caulfeild to connect the barracks at Bernera, Glenelg back to the main military road through the Great Glen in Fort Augustus. Today the road can still be followed, on foot or by adventurous cyclists, across the hills from Fort Augustus to Glen Moriston.

Route

The ascent from Fort Augustus

The second hairpin

The proper start of this road is the old timber bridge across the River Oich. From the bridge, the road crosses the modern A82 and climbs up through Bunoich to a handy free car park where explorers can leave their cars! The road turns sharply to the west here, through Jenkins Park and on through the forest gate. Soon after a right turn is signposted as the 'Old Military Road', and fairly quickly begins climbing. The slopes here are steep, so a series of zig-zags up the hill are employed, with 6 'hairpin' bends between straightish sections of varying lengths.

It is a stiff climb today, and unlike at the Devils Staircase in Glencoe, the modern path follows the road right to the point of the bends. Imagine being a soldier on a forced march, carrying all of you kit, arms and ammunition, not to mention the horses, carts and gun carriages following, and this must have been a very tough climb when the road was new. Eventually, however, the path levels out and the views down into the Great Glen, particularly across Fort Augustus and the southern end of Loch Ness, are worth the ascent.

As you climb, however, look at the path. Today it is barely a foot wide in places, but the old road can clearly be seen stretching out to either side. It doesn't seem to be consistently the full 15-18 feet that such roads were supposedly built to, but as elsewhere 250 years of erosion and wear have left their mark. Above the hairpins, the path has to squeeze almost along the outside verge of the road, with the remainder of the road consumed by dense gorse and broom bushes. It is not quite as precarious as it sounds, but take care all the same!

Forest Roads take over

Looking towards the crossroads

About a mile and a half from the car park, and the path meets a forest road. Here, as elsewhere, there is a gash in the trees ahead which looks like it may be the old alignment of the road, but don't go looking, you'll just get your feet wet! Instead, keep straight on up the forest road. Before long, a modern bridge carries the track across a small stream, but just to the left hidden in the grass (and snow), is an old arch proving that this is indeed the route of Caulfeilds road.

The old bridge

As we approach a crossroads, evidence appears of the works for the Beauly-Denny power lines. We keep straight ahead, climbing the hill, and at the top a much larger stone arch is preserved, albeit just, off to the right a little upstream of the modern forestry bridge. The old structure is blocked with barriers, and a quick look at the arch stones suggests it may not last too much longer. Hopefully its custodians will ensure its survival.

The evidence for the works is now increasing, and soon the old pylons emerge through the trees ahead. Whilst the new power line may be controversial, the fact that a 250 year old road is providing one of the key access routes through this section of the works must prove the skill and ability of Caulfeild's team was second to none. As we pass under the old lines, a myriad of new roads criss cross the landscape, with culverts crossing diverted streams, all covered in a thick blanket of snow! However, despite all this disturbance, underneath the firm stone roadway we're walking along is the road built by Caulfeild.

Keeping straight on, we soon plunge back into the forest. Evidence of recent blasting to widen the road is on the right, but as we sweep past it and start climbing, the feeling of being on a historic road resumes. Soon, however, we are back in the chaos of the works, and need to keep a good eye open for the left turn that takes us down to the river.

Allt Phocaichain

The ford

It is difficult to be certain exactly where the old road started the descent to the river. There are two turnings these days, but the second one is the easier. The road then twists and turns down to the water, but stop and take a look first. Below us in the valley is a rampaging torrent of water hurtling through, and with no evidence of there ever having been a bridge, the ford looks unwelcoming. The road climbing up on the far side is clear, but on our side it appears to disappear into a boggy area under trees.

There is, however, another option. Thanks to that controversial power line, there is a new bridge across the river just over the brow of the hill, back on the main road. We pass the compound, climb the hill and look out for a forest ride on the left. The first one is boggy, with ankle-twisting tussocks under the snow, and doubles back, but it is still the best bet. After 400m we re-discover the old road and can continue, unless you want to drop down to the river. Personally, I'd rather come back when the snow has melted!

Into Glen Moriston

Around the Allt Tarsuinn

The old road is still in good condition, and well maintained as a forest road here. Quite what condition it was in when the forestry recommissioned it is uncertain, but thanks to them it is an easy walk. Curving round the hill, still gently climbing, the trees to the right give way to reveal a vast cleared area. The works, and road, can be seen on the far side, but the crossing here is far from easy. The road then takes on some unexpected wiggles as it crosses the Allt Tarsuinn. These seem to be to avoid the worst of the boggy patch caused by the stream, and there is a suggestion that the old military road actually maintained a much straighter course.

Descending into Glen Moriston

The next three streams are all easily forded, or at least jumped over. There is no evidence that they were ever bridged, but surprisingly there is also no evidence of a cobbled ford either. Both Wade and Caulfeild were known to use them whenever possible to keep costs to a minimum, and elsewhere they have survived well. Perhaps the re-construction of the road by the forestry has either buried for protection or destroyed the structures, or perhaps the streams here are a little more violent.

The next stream is a different matter, deeper, wider and more powerful, it will take a mighty leap to cross. We are about a mile and a half from the A887 down in Glen Moriston, but with energy fading, and the threat of darkness closing in, it is perhaps prudent to turn back and leave the rest for another day, preferrably once the snow has gone!